I returned to Edinburgh twice, to a city where centuries of history intertwine with everyday life between dark closes and wynds, colourful Victoria Street and the lively Royal Mile. From the mighty Edinburgh Castle to the views from Calton Hill, the Scottish capital reveals a new face at every turn. And when evening falls, the best way to discover it is exactly as the Scots do – in the warmth of an old pub, with a glass of good whisky and a story that lingers.